If you are a plant lover, you probably have one or two poinsettias and at least one Christmas cactus to brighten your home for the holidays and the weeks that follow until spring arrives.
But why not try something different, like cyclamen?
Maybe you’ve tried this plant in the past and have been unsuccessful or consider it too fussy and not worth the effort. But since we are staying home more, why not give this beauty another chance?
Before purchase, examine closely and choose one with plenty of flower buds tucked among the leaves. Then follow the care suggestions below. Maybe you’ll change your mind and learn to love cyclamen.
Cyclamen percicum, commonly called florist cyclamen, belongs to a genus of about 20 species native to the Mediterranean region. There is also a hardy cyclamen, C. heterofolium, but that is a topic for another article. In our area, C. percicum are winter flowering houseplants. The plants produce flowers in a variety of colors (red, pink, lavender, white and salmon) as well as form (single, double, crested, fringed and frilled) and size (miniature, intermediate and standard). The flower buds rise above the mound of leaves and, when open, have an unusual appearance sometimes described as a "butterfly landing." The clustered foliage is just as unique as the flowers. Leaves are heart-shaped with silver markings and wavy edges.
Because cyclamen originate in a region with a moist-dry climate, they are very sensitive to the amount of light they receive as well as room temperature and moisture. In the home they are best situated in a high light location such as a north-facing window or table that does not receive direct sun; not enough light and the leaves may turn yellow. Cyclamen like cool temperatures with day temperatures between 60 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit and no lower than 50 degrees Fahrenheit at night. Avoid placing your plant near any source of heat, such as a furnace vent, as buds fail to develop with temperatures above 70 degrees.
The tuberous root needs to be kept moist, not soggy, and not allowed to dry out completely. Too much water may cause the tuber to rot, but if too dry the plant will wither; either way, it will die. Some plants can be restored after drying out if it is rewet, but the plant will lose leaves and buds and appear damaged so it’s best not to let that happen.
To maintain the correct amount of moisture, check the pot daily or every couple of days and water only when the soil surface feels dry; if the surface feels moist wait another day. Surface watering can rot the tuber if done incorrectly so carefully pour a small amount of water around the inside edge of the pot avoiding the center where the tuber is located. However, the best way to water is to place the pot in a shallow dish of room temperature water for about one hour and allow the water to wick up through the drainage holes to the roots and soil. You will be able to feel the increase in the weight of the pot, which indicates that water has been absorbed.
Cyclamen care means breaking the usual houseplant rule not to fertilize during winter. Because they are winter flowering, they will need fertilizing every two weeks with diluted standard house plant fertilizer. Routine maintenance of deadheading spent flowers by reaching down to the base of the stem and pinching off, as well as the removal of an occasional yellow leaf, will keep the plant beautiful for six to eight weeks until about the end of March.
The plant will gradually show a decline in flowers and an increase in leaf loss, which indicates that the plant’s energy is going to the tuber, signally dormancy. Many people will discard or compost the plant at this point. But if you are up for a challenge and want to try to keep it, place it in a cool area (i.e., your basement) but don’t allow it to dry out completely; moist peat moss can help.
The dormant or rest period should last six to eight weeks from late spring through early to mid-summer. By mid-summer, bring the plant back to a high light condition and water thoroughly. Eventually, you will begin to see leaves form and flower buds develop. Flowers may be fewer and the plant less vigorous than when professionally grown. With fertilization, proper lighting and growing conditions previously described, the plant may begin to bloom next winter. Eventually, if you are successful at keeping your cyclamen alive for years, you will need to repot the enlarging tuber. Propagating by seed or vegetative division is difficult and best left to professional growers.
Insect pests are few, but cyclamen can be bothered by mealy bugs, aphids, spider mites or thrips. Insecticidal soap is recommended; make sure to read and follow directions on the label. Signs of cyclamen mites, which may occur in greenhouses with high humidity, include distortion, puckering of leaves and failure of flower bud to open. Cyclamen mites can’t be seen without a microscope, but if infested, it is best to discard or compost the entire plant.
A lovely red cyclamen has been sitting on my coffee table since before the holidays, and I’m determined to keep it healthy and enjoy it until spring.
If you have questions about cyclamen or any of your houseplants, contact the Garden Hotline at beavermg@psu.edu. Be sure to include a photo or two.
Laura Murphy is a Master Gardener with Penn State Extension, Beaver County.
The Link LonkJanuary 11, 2021 at 06:02PM
https://www.timesonline.com/story/lifestyle/home-garden/2021/01/11/over-garden-gate-try-cyclamen-brighten-season/3921400001/
Over the Garden Gate: Try cyclamen to brighten the season - The Times
https://news.google.com/search?q=Flower&hl=en-US&gl=US&ceid=US:en
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